Lately, I’ve been seeing a whole lot of sewists make their own underwear, and it’s really inspiring me-but there’s one detail that I don’t need to incorporate in my me-made underwear: elastic.
If you’ve ever made underwear before, you most likely know that many finishing strategies for the legholes and waistline include elastic, either fold-over elastic, picot, and even braided elastic encased in fabric. I don’t learn about you, but none of my prepared-to-wear underwear have elastic within the legs-and sometimes they don’t in the waist both. This is the kind of underwear I like greatest.
So, the place does this leave me? I’m not a fan of elastic in my underwear because it feels too restrictive, however I need to make my own underwear. That is the place knit bands come into play for me. I’m going to point out you how you can swap elastic for a knit band to complete your underwear!
– Tape measure
– Extra paper
The way to Draft and Sew a Knit Band
Let’s do this.
Be certain that your fabric meets the stretch necessities acknowledged in the sample you’re utilizing. I’m making the Sophie Hines Median Knickers pattern, and it requires 50%-75% stretch.
If you’re using a Seamwork sample, it includes a stretch guide that can assist you see if the fabric you need to use has enough stretch in it. Listed here are some Seamwork patterns you should use:
– The Geneva panties are a classic alternative, knitted elastic band particularly if you’d like to make use of stretch lace.
– The Kaye shorts are perfect for biker-quick style underwear.
– The Dana underwear would work effectively with a knit band instead of elastic.
– The new (and free!) Flo period underwear. You can also make these without the absorbent fabric if you want to make a comfy pair of everyday underwear.
Cut your pattern out and sew collectively all the essential pieces. Here is my constructed garment except for the leg holes and waist.
Measure the leg opening and waistline that can assist you decide how long your knit bands need to be. My leg holes turned out to be 27 1/2 inches, and my waist is 34 1/2 inches. Next, I must do some math.
Ugh, math!? I know-it’s not my favourite, however we bought this!
You need some math as a result of if you cut the knit band the same size as the leg gap or waistline, it won’t have the stretch to imitate the elastic finish. You want to search out the perfect quantity of destructive ease on your knit band to remain in place and match securely-but comfortably-to your body.
I consulted with Wallis, our patternmaker-and the queen of knits-here at Seamwork, and she advised me to comply with a easy equation when making knit bands for closures. Make the knit band 90% of the total circumference of the opening.
I would like to emphasize that 90% is a suggestion and knitted elastic band a great place to start! Depending in your fabric’s recovery, you may should do some testing to get the fitting circumference. You’ll be able to all the time baste your band to your underwear to check the match first.
So, since my leg hole is 27 1/2 inches, my equation is: 27.5 x .9 = 24.75. I cut my leg bands at 24 3/4 inches.
My waist measured 34 1/2 inches, my equation is: 34.5 x .9 = 31. I lower my waistband at 31 inches.
I would like my bands to be a bit wider, so I minimize them 2 inches vast, but you may make them a bit narrower or wider. Try not to go under 1 1/2 inches or over 2 1/2 inches. In case you minimize your bands too slender, they may need some extra bulk on the seam allowance. For those who minimize them too extensive, you may have issues fitting your gusset.
Sew the two short ends of your knit band collectively. Press the seam to one facet. Helpful trace: If you’re utilizing a serger, use only one needle to cut down on bulk when serging.
Press the band in half lengthwise.
With fallacious sides collectively, baste the raw edge.
With proper sides together, pin the knit band evenly alongside the leg hole. You will have to stretch the knit band as you go.
A trick to evenly pinning the band is to mark your band in quarters. Then, mark your leghole and waistline in quarters. Stretch to match the quarter markings and pin in place, evenly distributing the band.
Using a serger or a zigzag stitch, sew the knit band to the underwear at 3/eight inch. Stretch the knit band as you go to ease it in. When you loved this information and you would love to receive more details concerning woven elastic webbing kindly visit our own web site. You may see this in action in this video tutorial for adding a knit band on our YouTube channel.
Press the seam allowance towards the underwear and topstitch with a slim zigzag to hold the seam allowance in place.
Now repeat that very same process on your different leg gap and waistband and marvel on the no-elastic undies you just made! Great job!
Taylor has an eye for design. Because the Product Manager for Seamwork, she needs to verify your online experiences are enjoyable and pleasant.