Lately, I have been seeing numerous sewists make their own underwear, and it’s really inspiring me-however there’s one element that I don’t need to incorporate in my me-made underwear: elastic.
If you’ve ever made underwear before, you probably know that many ending strategies for the legholes and waistline include elastic, both fold-over elastic, picot, or even braided elastic encased in fabric. I don’t learn about you, however none of my ready-to-wear underwear have elastic in the legs-and generally they don’t within the waist both. This is the kind of underwear I like finest.
So, the place does this depart me? I’m not a fan of elastic in my underwear because it feels too restrictive, but I need to make my own underwear. That is the place knit bands come into play for me. I’m going to show you how you can swap elastic for a knit band to complete your underwear!
You’ll Need:
– Fabric
– Pattern
– Tape measure
– Ruler
– Extra paper
– Pencil
How you can Draft and Sew a Knit Band
Let’s do that.
Make sure that your fabric meets the stretch requirements said in the pattern you’re utilizing. I’m making the Sophie Hines Median Knickers pattern, and it requires 50%-75% stretch.
If you’re using a Seamwork sample, it features a stretch guide that will help you see if the fabric you want to use has enough stretch in it. Here are some Seamwork patterns you can use:
– The Geneva panties are a classic alternative, particularly if you need to use stretch lace.
– The Kaye shorts are perfect for biker-short model underwear.
– The Dana underwear would work well with a knit band as an alternative of knitted elastic band.
– The new (and free!) Flo period underwear. You can also make these with out the absorbent fabric if you want to make a comfy pair of on a regular basis underwear.
Cut your sample out and sew together all the fundamental items. Here is my constructed garment aside from the leg holes and waist.
Measure the leg opening and waistline that will help you determine how lengthy your knit bands must be. My leg holes turned out to be 27 1/2 inches, and my waist is 34 1/2 inches. In the event you loved this informative article and you would love to receive details about jacquard elastic webbing – git.skewed.de, i implore you to visit the page. Next, I will have to do some math.
Ugh, math!? I know-it’s not my favourite, however we acquired this!
You need some math as a result of if you lower the knit band the same size because the leg hole or waistline, it won’t have the stretch to imitate the elastic finish. You want to seek out the proper amount of damaging ease for your knit band to remain in place and match securely-but comfortably-to your physique.
I consulted with Wallis, our patternmaker-and the queen of knits-here at Seamwork, and she advised me to comply with a easy equation when making knit bands for closures. Make the knit band 90% of the total circumference of the opening.
I need to emphasise that 90% is a suggestion and an excellent place to start out! Depending on your fabric’s recovery, you may should do some testing to get the appropriate circumference. You’ll be able to always baste your band to your underwear to examine the match first.
So, since my leg hole is 27 1/2 inches, jacquard elastic band my equation is: 27.5 x .9 = 24.75. I minimize my leg bands at 24 3/four inches.
My waist measured 34 1/2 inches, my equation is: 34.5 x .9 = 31. I minimize my waistband at 31 inches.
I want my bands to be a bit wider, so I cut them 2 inches huge, but you can also make them a bit narrower or wider. Try to not go under 1 1/2 inches or over 2 1/2 inches. In the event you reduce your bands too slender, they might have some extra bulk on the seam allowance. In the event you reduce them too vast, you may have issues fitting your gusset.
Sew the 2 brief ends of your knit band collectively. Press the seam to at least one aspect. Helpful trace: If you’re using a serger, use only one needle to chop down on bulk when serging.
Press the band in half lengthwise.
With mistaken sides collectively, baste the uncooked edge.
With right sides together, pin the knit band evenly along the leg hole. You’ll have to stretch the knit band as you go.
A trick to evenly pinning the band is to mark your band in quarters. Then, mark your leghole and waistline in quarters. Stretch to match the quarter markings and pin in place, evenly distributing the band.
Using a serger or a zigzag stitch, sew the knit band to the underwear at 3/eight inch. Stretch the knit band as you go to ease it in. You possibly can see this in motion in this video tutorial for adding a knit band on our YouTube channel.
Press the seam allowance in direction of the underwear and topstitch with a slender zigzag to carry the seam allowance in place.
Now repeat that same course of on your other leg gap and waistband and marvel at the no-elastic undies you simply made! Great job!
Taylor Pruitt
UX Designer
Taylor has an eye for design. Because the Product Manager for Seamwork, she wants to verify your online experiences are enjoyable and satisfying.