Following on from part certainly one of our WD Blackout particular build venture, right now we pick up where we left off. Towards the tip of the first video, I spoke about the concept of making a DIY distro plate to sit on top of the Phanteks P600S power supply shroud and began making a template of the distro plate structure. Partly two, I take the concept from a cardboard template to an precise working mannequin made from a number of forged acrylic sheets. But will the concept be a hit? Let’s find out.
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We are a little behind schedule with part two of this build on account of me being in poor health and losing my voice for a week (which is not very best when making movies)… regardless of that I managed to get on with some case mods whereas my voice was out of action. The opening part of WD_Blackout Part two focuses on those case mods as properly as the DIY distro plate. The Phanteks P600S chassis was utterly dismantled, which allowed me to individually hydro dip a block carbon impact movie on most of the outer panels and the power supply shroud.
The motherboard tray was handled with a coating of spray primer, then finished with a satin black spray paint coating to match the inner blackout theme. In addition to hydro dipping and painting, the proper-hand steel aspect panel and the central steel front panel have been sent away for laser reducing. The best-hand panel can have a WD_Black laser-reduce logo and a WD brand on the entrance panel, both logos will probably be backed with vivid coloured acrylic to assist them stand out.
Once my voice had recovered enough to begin talking on video once more, I made a begin on constructing the DIY distro plate that will sit on prime of the Phanteks P600S PSU shroud. The plan for this distro plate is to make all of the onerous tubes in the custom loop position in a vertical orientation, so alignment between hardware elements and the inlet/outlet ports might be vital for this concept to work as meant.
As you can see from the video, the distro plate is made from three items of cast acrylic sheet, an 8mm central sheet and 5mm higher and decrease covers. With no quick access to CNC machines for this undertaking, I proceeded to make the distro plate completely by hand using common drilling tools that the majority DIY enthusiasts could already personal, including a pillar drill, jigsaw, hss Drill various dimension drill bits, metric taps and readily available sealants.
Materials used to assemble the distro plate:
– 8mm thick cast acrylic Perspex sheet.
– 2 x 5mm thick forged acrylic Perspex sheets.
– M4 x 18mm button head stainless drill bit steel machine screws.
– Various adhesives/sealants.
– HSS jigsaw blades.
– M4 x 0.7 HSS metric coarse machine tap.
– G1/4 HSS machine tap.
– 3mm HSS drill bit.
– 5mm HSS drill bit.
– 8mm HSS drill bit.
Listed below are the steps taken to make the distro plate:
– Transfer the dimensions from the template to the acrylic sheet that shall be used for the higher cowl. I discovered that marking the protective film with the dimensions was carried out best through the use of a biro.
– Clamp all three items of acrylic together using g-clamps and bolting the sheets together in a waste area that will probably be minimize off.
– Drill out all screw holes by means of all three items of acrylic while clamped collectively, I used a 3.3mm drill since m4 screws have been being used to carry the plate collectively.
– I then ran an m4 machine tap via the screw holes whereas the three acrylic sheets were still clamped collectively. Next, utilizing a jigsaw set to a gradual velocity with a high-quality HSS slicing blade, I cut out the outline shape of the distro plate.
– I then widened the screw holes in the upper two sheets of acrylic to 4.5mm utilizing a HHS drill bit within the drill press, reduce out the water channels within the acrylic’s central piece, and then bonded and clamped the three acrylic sheets together using adhesive and m4 machine screws.
I initially tried using clear RTV silicone sealant to kind a seal across the mating flange of the distro plate however the silicone looked inadequate very quickly, so I dismantled the plate and used a distinct sealer that’s an adhesive in addition to a sealant. I then examined the seal’s water-tightness by connecting up the distro plate to my take a look at bench and stress testing the CPU for a chronic period.
The outcome isn’t good, nonetheless, after virtually three hours of constant CPU stress testing the distro plate was nonetheless watertight. Almost instantly after switching the pump on, pressure constructed within the distro plate which blew the seal slightly round the primary liquid compartment, not sufficient to trigger a leak but it surely was sufficient to affect the aesthetics of the plate.
The CPU temperature throughout stress testing remained constant at round 65⁰C, peaking at 68⁰C which is perfectly acceptable. So, the distro plate could be very near being a profitable DIY venture, just a little more work on the seal, testing different sealant/adhesive is needed earlier than I declare it a whole success which is what ailing be engaged on for the subsequent video, in addition to assembling the ultimate system to complete this undertaking build in part 3.
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KitGuru says: Slightly more testing with adhesives and sealants is required for this DIY distro plate venture to be a complete success, however I can’t let it beat me. Be sure you stick around for half three to see whether it is a complete success.